Storing Your Hat
All felted fur hats come in their own hat case. The case is adjustable on the inside so it will keep it's length (the length of your head). You may store your hat in the case when you're not wearing it (as long as it's not wet (rain, sweat etc.). Put the hat retainer (styrofoam head shape) inside the hat (each of our hats comes with this), then let it air dry. The styrofoam is the same shape as your head to help the hat retain it's size to fit you.
Our palm leaf hats are all-natural, with no shalack finish, so you'll need to let it air dry in the open air if it gets wet.
Cleaning Your Hat
Brushing. When brushing a hat, always brush it counter-clockwise no matter what part of the hat is facing you. The hat is built this way and the the hair is napped counter-clockwise. This ensures you're brushing in the same direction it was built and napped.
Pouncing. For lighter colored hats, if you get finger prints on them, you can take a piece of 180 grit sand paper and give it a light dust. This is called pouncing (a hatter's term for lightly sanding). Most of your finger prints are just on the surface at least when they first get on there, but if you let them to soak in, they're harder to get out. They might have to be washed out. Hats are sanded down from the raw-body to begin with, so pouncing is not something unnatural. Just go counter-clockwise.
"I had a guy who brought in a silver-belly colored hat with ink pen marks on the bottom of the brim. The marks had been on his hat for about 5 years. By the time he finished telling me how the ink got on there, I had pounced it off with a piece of sand paper." - Jimmy
Washing. All our hats are dyed at the factory with a high-quality die-set that won't bleed, so they can easily be washed, just bring them into the shop. If you purchased a hat elsewhere that is not quality, you run the risk of getting caught in the rain with dye bleeding down your face. Quality hats won't bleed.